Does a definitive American style still exist in the 21st century? New York Fashion Week took place last week in an America that was still recovering from the economy, still trying to assert its authority amid foreign competitors while appeasing the increasingly divided public. In response to such an identity crisis, many American designers attempted to adapt quintessential American fashion to the modern age, from Derek Lam’s cowboy inspired fall collection to Tommy Hilfiger’s classically preppy designs. Most notably, perhaps, was the reemergence of voluminous, extravagant fur on the runways. One year ago, at the peak of the economic crisis, no sane fashion designer would dare include fur in their collections, for fear of being accused of disregarding consumer demand and violating animal rights. But this year, to the dismay of animal rights supporters, lavish fur coats, fur dresses, fur tops, and even fur purses were proudly and freely presented down the runways. Does this surprising trend represent a disjunction between the fashion-forward artistic crowd and Middle America, or are designers signaling towards an optimistic future, one where the United States is able to revert to its prominent, relatively luxurious past?

Thakoon Panichgul, a prominent Thai-American designer, featured a feral collection that was inspired by nature and warmth. Models paraded down the runway in hip urban outfits lined with different types of fur, and many wore dresses and tights (not something to try in the winter) beneath thick hooded fur coats.  The mix between edgy New York and soft, romantic furs seemed to evoke the desire to feel secure and comfortable in a city like New York that swallows you in as easily as it spits you out.

Going along with the theme of comfort was designer Marc Jacobs, as he sent down an exquisite collection of totally wearable clothes unlike his previous, more extravagant and in-your-face collections. Avoiding distractions such as embellishments and colorful patterns, he presented clothes with simple colors but perfect tailoring and functionality. But they were still luxurious, as seen from the many fur coats the models were wearing. What made me pay attention was the fact that many outfits were suitable for work, if you disregard the fact that some models literally had fur draped around their neck and arms. If the economic recession made it a stigma to display your wealth in the face of suffering common folk like Joe the Plumber, Marc Jacobs seems to be depicting a future where consumerism and luxury is again accepted, where it makes perfect sense to invest your money in a timeless fur coat that will actually keep you warm throughout the winter. For him, luxury and simplicity are not mutually exclusive; instead they reinforce the beauty of each other. Perhaps by next year the Wall Street bankers will be entitled to regular bonuses again, so their wives are able to indulge in and propagate Marc Jacob’s take on post-recession style.

For many American designers, fashion would not exist without a culture that supports such aesthetics, and the prominence of fur this season can be interpreted as a statement against the emergence of an America obsessed with preserving an image of frugality and attacking the privileged elite. The desire for fur reflects the primal needs for warmth, protection, and dominance, and such needs cannot be fulfilled by the mass-manufactured clothes at the Targets and Forever21s of the world. Similarly, by trying too much to appease one side of the population, America is at risk of compromising its quality, authority and identity. We feel secure under America’s blanket of protection--economic dominance, and even though, like fur, it raises ethical concerns, perhaps it is time to be positive and embrace the possibility of a nation where wealth, simplicity and comfort can peacefully coexist. Maybe this will lead us toward resolving Americas’ confused identity.